Removal
Note: If no work is to be done on the pistons and connecting rods, then removal of the cylinder head and pistons will not be necessary. Instead, the pistons need only be pushed far enough up the bores so that they are positioned clear of the crankpins.

1 With reference to Part A, B or C of this Chapter, and earlier Sections of this Part as applicable, carry out the following: a) Separate the engine from the transmission.

b) Remove the timing chain/belt and crankshaft sprocket.

c) Remove the sump - XU and TU series engines.

d) Remove the oil pump.

e) Remove the clutch components and flywheel/driveplate.

XV, XW and XY series engines 2 Unscrew and remove the bolts which hold the crankcase half sections together. Split the crankcase and keep the main bearing shells with their crankcase web recesses if the shells are to be used again.

3 Remove the crankshaft oil seal.

4 If the piston/connecting rod assemblies are to be left in place, mark the big-end caps and the connecting rods so that they can be refitted in their original sequence and the correct way round. Note that No 1 cylinder liner is at the transmission (flywheel) end of the engine.

5 Unscrew the big-end nuts and remove the caps and lower big-end bearing shells.

6 Before removing the crankshaft it is advisable to check the endfloat using a dial gauge in contact with the end of the crankshaft. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero the gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check the endfloat.

The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required.

7 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap between the web of the crankpin and the thrustwasher (see illustration).

8.7 Checking crankshaft endfloat using feeler blades

8 Lift the crankshaft from its crankcase half section, keep the shell bearings in their original web recesses if they are to be used again and retrieve the semi-circular thrustwashers from either side of No 2 bearing web.

9 Loosely refit the big-end caps to the connecting rods, and secure with the nuts - this will help to keep the components in their correct order.

XU series engines
10 Remove the pistons and connecting rods as described in Section 7. (Refer to the Note at the beginning of this Section).

11 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts, and remove the oil seal carrier from the front (timing belt) end of the cylinder block, along with its gasket (where fitted) (see illustration).

8.11 Removing the oil seal carrier from the front of the block - XU series engines

12 Remove the oil pump drive chain, and slide the drive sprocket and spacer (where fitted) off the end of the crankshaft. Remove the Woodruff key, and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping (see illustrations).

8.12a Slide off the oil pump drive sprocket . . .

8.12b . . . and remove the Woodruff key

13 Before removing the crankshaft it is advisable to check the endfloat as described in paragraphs 6 and 7.

14 The main bearing caps should be numbered 1 to 5, starting from the transmission (flywheel/driveplate) end of the engine (see illustration).

8.14 Main bearing cap identification markings (arrowed)

If not, mark them
accordingly using a centre-punch. Also note the correct fitted depth of the rear crankshaft oil seal in the bearing cap.

15 Undo the two bolts (one at the front of the block, and one at the rear) securing the centre main bearing cap to the block. Remove the bolts, along with their sealing washers.

16 Slacken and remove the main bearing cap retaining bolts/nuts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safekeeping.

Also recover the lower thrustwasher halves from the side of No 2 main bearing cap (see illustration).

8.16 Removing the main bearing cap and thrustwashers (arrowed)

Remove the rubber sealing strips from the sides of No 1 main bearing cap, and discard them.

17 Lift out the crankshaft, and discard the rear oil seal.

18 Recover the upper bearing shells from the cylinder block, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. Remove the upper thrustwasher halves from the side of No 2 main bearing, and store them with the lower halves.

TU series aluminium block engines
19 Remove the pistons and connecting rods as described in Section 7. (Refer to the Note at the beginning of this Section).

20 Before removing the crankshaft it is advisable to check the endfloat as described in paragraphs 6 and 7.

21 Work around the outside of the cylinder block, and unscrew all the small (6 mm) bolts securing the main bearing ladder to the base of the cylinder block. Note the correct fitted depth of both the left- and right-hand crankshaft oil seals in the cylinder block/main bearing ladder.

22 Working in a diagonal sequence, evenly and progressively slacken the ten large (11 mm) main bearing ladder retaining bolts by a turn at a time. Once all the bolts are loose, remove them from the ladder.

23 With all the retaining bolts removed, carefully lift the main bearing ladder casting away from the base of the cylinder block.

Recover the lower main bearing shells, and tape them to their respective locations in the casting. If the two locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the casting for safe-keeping.

24 Lift out the crankshaft, and discard both the oil seals. Remove the oil pump drive chain from the end of the crankshaft. Where necessary, slide off the drive sprocket, and recover the Woodruff key.

25 Recover the upper main bearing shells, and store them along with the relevant lower bearing shell. Also recover the two thrustwashers (one fitted either side of No 2 main bearing) from the cylinder block.

TU series cast-iron block engines
26 Remove the pistons and connecting rods as described in Section 7. (Refer to the Note at the beginning of this Section).

27 Before removing the crankshaft it is advisable to check the endfloat as described in paragraphs 6 and 7.

28 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft leftand right-hand oil seal housings from each end of the cylinder block, noting the correct fitted locations of the locating dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the housings for safekeeping.

29 Remove the oil pump drive chain, and slide the drive sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. Remove the Woodruff key, and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.

30 The main bearing caps should be numbered 1 to 5 from the transmission (flywheel) end of the engine. If not, mark them accordingly using a centre-punch or paint.

31 Unscrew and remove the main bearing cap retaining bolts, and withdraw the caps.

Recover the lower main bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safekeeping.

32 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking care not to displace the upper main bearing shell.

33 Recover the upper bearing shells from the cylinder block, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. Remove the thrustwasher halves from the side of No 2 main bearing, and store them with the bearing cap.

Inspection
34 Clean the crankshaft using paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry it, preferably with compressed air if available. Be sure to clean the oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similar probe, to ensure that they are not obstructed.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

35 Check the main and big-end bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting and cracking.

36 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by distinct metallic knocking when the engine is running (particularly noticeable when the engine is pulling from low speed) and some loss of oil pressure.

37 Main bearing wear is accompanied by severe engine vibration and rumble - getting progressively worse as engine speed increases - and again by loss of oil pressure.

38 Check the bearing journal for roughness by running a finger lightly over the bearing surface. Any roughness (which will be accompanied by obvious bearing wear) indicates that the crankshaft requires regrinding (where possible) or renewal.

39 If the crankshaft has been reground, check for burrs around the crankshaft oil holes (the holes are usually chamfered, so burrs should not be a problem unless regrinding has been carried out carelessly).

Remove any burrs with a fine file or scraper, and thoroughly clean the oil holes as described previously.

40 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the main and big-end bearing journals, and compare the results with the Specifications (see illustration).

8.40 Measuring a crankshaft big-end journal diameter

By measuring the diameter at a number of points around each journal’s circumference, you will be able to determine whether or not the journal is out-of-round. Take the measurement at each end of the journal, near the webs, to determine if the journal is tapered. Compare the results obtained with those given in the Specifications.

41 Check the oil seal contact surfaces at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If the seal has worn a deep groove in the surface of the crankshaft, consult an engine overhaul specialist; repair may be possible, but otherwise a new crankshaft will be required.

42 At the time of writing, it was not clear whether Peugeot produce oversize bearing shells for all of these engines. On some engines, if the crankshaft journals have not already been reground, it may be possible to have the crankshaft reconditioned, and to fit oversize shells (see Section 13). If no oversize shells are available and the crankshaft has worn beyond the specified limits, it will have to be renewed. Consult your Peugeot dealer or engine specialist for further information on parts availability.